Car Air Conditioning and Heating Repair

If your vehicle’s air conditioning or heating isn’t working, it can make even the shortest trip downright miserable.

The climate control system in your vehicle is complicated, made of many moving parts, fluids and electronics that may cause problems. In some cases, the air conditioning or heating technically “works” but isn’t putting out cold or warm air. Or the air may be the right temperature, but the fan isn’t circulating it through the vehicle.

Schedule an appointment today with your local Tire Pros for AC or heating repair.

At every service, you can expect your local Tire Pros to:

• Perform a multi-point vehicle check of your entire vehicle, in which we check major components such as tire conditions (tread depth, tread wear and air pressure), suspension, vehicle lights, car battery life, and more.
• Our Nationwide Service Warranty covers parts and labor for most services, for 24 months or 24,000 miles.

How does air conditioning work?

Your car’s AC works by changing the temperature and pressure of the refrigerant to pull heat from the air. The compressor creates a high-pressure gas from the refrigerant in the system. The compressed gas, now at high temperature and pressure, flows through the condenser where it’s transformed into a hot liquid under higher pressure. The receiver/dryer removes moisture and contaminants from the liquid. Then it flows into the expansion valve or orifice tube to change the state from the liquid refrigerant into a cold low-pressure gas.

During this change of state, the gas pulls latent heat from the air around the evaporator, lowering the temperature of the gas. The blower motor blows cold air from the evaporator through the vents and into the cabin.

The air conditioning system in your car is made up of these parts:

Compressor: This is the primary component, powered by the serpentine belt that also runs the radiator fan and other accessories. It compresses the refrigerant in the system as the first step of the cooling process. It’s controlled by the compressor clutch. The compressor is one of the more expensive parts of the system to replace, but it’s vital if you want AC.

Compressor clutch: It controls when the compressor turns off and on, so the refrigerant is adequately pressurized before it goes to the condenser.

Condenser: It turns hot refrigerant into a liquid and reduces the pressure while circulating it on to the next stage of the system. It’s usually found in front of the radiator.

Receiver/dryer: Separates liquid refrigerant from the gaseous state, filters out contaminants, and removes moisture. One of its main jobs is to protect the rest of the system from damage.

Accumulator: Depending on the manufacturer, your vehicle may have an accumulator instead of a receiver/dryer. It controls how much refrigerant flows into the evaporator while also filtering out moisture and particle contaminants. It accumulates excess refrigerant so it can’t damage the compressor.

Thermal expansion valve or orifice tube: Your vehicle will have one or the other, but not both. You’ll find either one situated between the condenser and evaporator, where it regulates the amount of refrigerant flowing into the evaporator.

Evaporator: This is where the cold-air magic happens. The evaporator hides just behind the dash, removes humidity from the air in the cabin, and cools air moving through it. It’s controlled by a clutch cycling switch that monitors the temperature to prevent the evaporator core from freezing, which could damage the AC system.

Blower motor: The fan blows the cold air passing over the evaporator through the vents. The fan controls activate a central control head or resistor to control the fan speed. You can also direct the air through the vents via a series of doors that open and close according to the buttons you press.

All AC systems work basically the same, but each manufacturer puts their own spin on the details.

Why is my AC not working?

Because your AC system is very complex, there are several common areas of failure.

Low refrigerant: This is a common problem and can be fixed by simply adding more refrigerant. You can try this fix yourself, but keep in mind if the refrigerant is low, there’s a leak in the system somewhere.

Faulty compressor: Strange noises or a sudden failure could be a sign the compressor is worn out. Normal wear can lead to refrigerant or oil leaks that can be detected by a qualified mechanic with the right tools.

Worn out condenser: If the AC is blowing air, but it’s not cool, the condenser could be the culprit. The condenser’s fins and tubes could be clogged or damaged from road dirt so air won’t flow through. There may be an internal blockage that prevents the refrigerant from circulating. Or, the condenser could be working fine, but there could be a problem with the cooling fan or fan clutch.

Faulty blower motor or resistor: If the fan makes noises but doesn’t blow air at all, the motor could be suspect. If it only blows at one speed, the resistor could be faulty.

Receiver/dryer failure: If the AC doesn’t work and your windows are fogged on the inside, it’s a sign that moisture is accumulating. That means the receiver or dryer should be replaced.

Fuses: Check the fuses for your air conditioning system, but don’t replace them right away. You may have the same problem again. Have a tech at your local Tire Pros test the electrical system to track down the issue that caused the fuse to blow.

How does the heater in your car work?

Your vehicle’s heater is less complicated than the air conditioning system. Still, several components can malfunction, leaving you freezing on a chilly morning. Here’s a look at the major components of your car’s heating system:

Antifreeze: This liquid, usually green or orange, circulates through your car’s radiator, engine and heater core, transferring heat into the engine compartment

Heater core: Similar to a radiator, the heater core transfers the heat from the engine carried by the antifreeze through the air moving into the cabin.

Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) control: These are the knobs, switches or buttons that control how much warm or cold air moves into the cabin and the fan speed.

Blower motor: Also called the fan motor, the blower motor moves the warm air through the heater core and into the cabin.

Thermostat: The thermostat controls the flow of antifreeze through the radiator. It stays closed while the car warms up to operating temperature. That’s why you have to let the car warm up a few minutes before you feel any heat.

Water Pump: The water pump circulates the antifreeze through the radiator, engine block and heating system.

Why is my heater not working?

Low coolant: Your car uses a mix of antifreeze and water to cool the engine. If the heater is not producing enough heat or seems to take a long time warm-up, check the coolant level. If it’s low, add coolant as recommended in the owner’s manual.

Heater core: If the coolant level is okay, but the car doesn’t blow warm air, the heater core could be clogged or leaky. If the engine overheats or uses coolant quickly, you could have a leak in the system that should be checked as soon as possible. If your car has a fog inside or you find a sweet, fruity odor, antifreeze may be leaking inside the vehicle.

Heater controls: The controls can break, so they’re not regulating the temperature or the fan speed properly. Or the blower doors may be stuck in one spot, so you get air on your feet but not in your face.

Thermostat: If the temperature gauge stays on the cool side even after you’ve warmed up the car for a reasonable time, you may have a broken thermostat. It won’t open up and allow the system to provide heat.

Leaks: Antifreeze may leak through broken seals or O-rings, or leaks in hoses and connectors. Look for leak spots under the car, and if you see a puddle check the antifreeze level before you start the car.

Is your vehicle experiencing a cold ride to work or school? Schedule an appointment today for AC or heater repair at your local Tire Pros.

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